The Everest Ascent Rivalry Continues: Sherpa Guides Vie for Summit Record

Created: JANUARY 22, 2025

The competition for the most Mount Everest summits is far from over. Sherpa guide Pasang Dawa, 48, is determined to reclaim the record in the upcoming year.

Dawa recently told the Associated Press, "I'll keep climbing Everest as long as my health allows. People over 60 have conquered it, so I know it's possible. However, that doesn’t mean I’ll push myself until I reach 60. I’ll continue for as long as I’m physically capable."

This spring, Dawa reached Everest's summit twice. On May 14th, he tied the existing record of 26 successful ascents held by fellow Sherpa guide, Kami Rita. However, Rita quickly surpassed him with a 27th climb. Not to be outdone, Dawa matched Rita's new record on May 23rd. Yet again, Rita surged ahead on the same day with an unprecedented 28th summit.

Rita, 53, has declared his intention to return to Everest in the 2024 climbing season. Dawa will also be on the mountain, guiding international clients to the peak, setting the stage for another record-breaking showdown.

Pasang Dawa

Pasang Dawa's mountaineering journey began at the young age of 12 when he worked as a porter, transporting gear and supplies from his village located at the base of Everest. He later transitioned to a kitchen assistant and finally earned the opportunity to carry equipment to higher camps in 1997.

Dawa's first Everest summit was in 1998 while guiding British adventurer Bear Grylls. He experienced a near-fatal fall of approximately 650 feet close to the summit but remarkably survived with only minor injuries.

Since then, he has successfully reached Everest’s peak almost annually, with exceptions only due to mountain closures or family bereavements. Like many Sherpa guides and Everest workers, Dawa’s primary income comes from the spring climbing season, which must sustain his family throughout the year.

Last month, the Nepalese government acknowledged the contributions of Sherpa guides and record-holding mountaineers during a celebration commemorating the 70th anniversary of the first successful Everest ascent.

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